Knots
I know that every person that goes fishing has to tie a knot at some time. So here are some knots that anyone can tie on the lake.
Clinch Knot
If you have to tie new line to a reel, here's how. The Arbor Knot
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Here s a Clinch Knot!
Here is a Arbor Knot!
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Casting
Bait casting reels
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Here is a bait-casting reel!
Here is a spinning reel!
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Bank fishing
It’s all about angles
If you’re not much for dragging a Carolina rig for hours on end, don’t fret—plenty of big bass, especially pond bass, hang out in shallow water year-round. While a lot of bank anglers like to throw into the deepest water possible, I always prefer to test the shallow bite as well.
Just like in big-water situations, covering and eliminating water is key when shoreline fishing. Although I’m not in the comfort of my bass boat, my feet may as well double as a trolling motor when bank fishing because I am constantly on the move. I like to walk the bank, making as many casts parallel to the bank in front of me as I possibly can. These parallel casts ensure that my bait remains in the strike zone for as long as possible, which drastically increases my chances of getting a big bite.
Sometimes this tactic will require you to get in some pretty awkward positions, but don’t be afraid to look like a baby giraffe. When I’m targeting shallow fish, the entire top-half of my body is hanging over the water’s edge. Always remember that small-water bass are never very bashful about attacking a bait within inches of the shore, as I’ve even had 5-pounders jump onto the bank to eat my topwater baits. Talk about a rush!
Be mobile
One of the biggest mistakes that I continue making to this very day is bringing everything I own when I bank fish. Every time I decide to go bank fishing, I end up emptying my bass boat compartments into the back seat of my truck. While it’s always good to have options, there’s often no need to over-complicate shoreline fishing. Taking a couple of hours to make a permanent bank fishing kit can optimize your fishing time while keeping your choices simple.
Just Like boat fishing
Just like fishing from a boat, keep moving until you find the fish and then work the area thoroughly to see if you’ve found where the bass are congregated. But avoid the mindset that you’re going to go to one spot on the bank and sit there until they bite. Be mobile and go to the fish.
1. Wear dark clothing
Now this may not me the most comfortable choice of apparel in the summer months, but it pays big dividends, especially when targeting shallow bass. I’m not suggesting you dress in a black jumpsuit, but even a dark t-shirt can really help your cause.
In my opinion, bass have much better eyesight than we give them credit for. Bass look upward for 2 primary reasons—for protection and for food. Whether they’re protecting newly hatched fry or looking to avoid predators, they can be fairly paranoid animals. I’ve also noticed that bass frequently look upward for feeding opportunities as I’ve witnessed many pond bass swim toward my bait before it even hits the water.
Stealth is the name of the game for bank anglers and a bright-colored shirt is going to give your position away in a hurry. Just like when I’m bed fishing on a big fishery, I like to wear a dark green or dark blue shirt to help my silhouette blend in with surrounding trees or clear skies.
2. Keep your distance from the water
More often than not, I catch my biggest pond bass within the first 5 casts of the day. Am I that good of an angler? Absolutely not. I do, however, make a concerted effort to stay as far away from the water as I can—especially when I first arrive.
There isn’t a worse feeling than approaching the water of your favorite farm pond, only to see the huge swirl of a spooked bass. It used to happen to me all the time, so I just started fishing from further away. There are always going to be some big, shallow pond bass regardless of the time of year, so make your first few casts count and catch them off-guard. When you’re convinced you’ve covered the area thoroughly, you can then start moving closer to the water to achieve the more desirable casting angles.
3. Start with the quiet, finesse techniques
We always hear the professional anglers talk about “picking off” the most aggressive bass with reaction baits before using more subtle presentations to catch the more lethargic fish. I’m well aware what I’m suggesting is the polar opposite, but hear me out. Pond bass are much different than big lake bass because in most cases they’re much less pressured. These pond bass aren’t used to having loud, shiny and intrusive baits whiz past their faces and in many cases they’ll get spooked by these louder presentations. For this reason I like to use a weightless presentation, such as a wacky rigged Yamamoto Senko, for my first couple of casts. It enters the water quietly, has a very natural, non-threatening profile and won’t spook those wary, giant bass.
4. Keep your bait in the strike zone for as long as possible
Understanding the proper casting angles is very important when fishing out of a boat on large fisheries, but it’s even more critical when fishing from shore. As I mentioned earlier, there always seems to be a good population of shallow bass on small ponds, so I like to start by targeting shallow water.
In order to do this, I cast parallel to the bank most of the time—even if it means leaning over the water and making an awkward, ugly looking cast. Make a long cast and slowly work your bait within inches of the shore and you’ll be shocked by how shallow big bass will be positioned. After a few identical casts, I’ll begin making quartering casts in the shallow areas, dividing the area into small “grids”. If there’s a shallow bass to be caught, there’s a high probability you’ll catch it with this technique.
5. If there’s a lack of cover, watch for environmental cues
We all dream about fishing small ponds laden with sexy blowdowns, stump flats and thick grass, but unfortunately for us, they’re hard to find. When you find yourself fishing small waters with limited cover, don’t be discouraged—environmental cues can be a dead giveaway to solid bass fishing.
I look for 2 specific environmental cues when bank fishing—wind and shade. Heavy winds blow plankton, baitfish, small panfish and most importantly bass to very predictable places on small ponds. For this reason, it’s always a good idea to focus your efforts on windblown banks. Although it can be irritating for casting purposes, especially when you’re surrounded by trees, it can produce some really big bass. Combine a windblown bank with the proper casting angles and you’re giving yourself an excellent chance of catching a giant bass.
Shade is also very important. In the absence of cover, look for any available shade spots as bass will position on the edge of shade lines just as they would a stump or fallen tree. Shady areas provide bass with both cooler water temperatures and a sense of security.Pond fishing is one of the best ways to become a better bass angler. If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to catch trophy bass, don’t be ashamed to head to a local pond this summer. Not only will you have a blast, but you’ll have the chance to hone your bass fishing skillset.
-By Walker Smith
If you’re not much for dragging a Carolina rig for hours on end, don’t fret—plenty of big bass, especially pond bass, hang out in shallow water year-round. While a lot of bank anglers like to throw into the deepest water possible, I always prefer to test the shallow bite as well.
Just like in big-water situations, covering and eliminating water is key when shoreline fishing. Although I’m not in the comfort of my bass boat, my feet may as well double as a trolling motor when bank fishing because I am constantly on the move. I like to walk the bank, making as many casts parallel to the bank in front of me as I possibly can. These parallel casts ensure that my bait remains in the strike zone for as long as possible, which drastically increases my chances of getting a big bite.
Sometimes this tactic will require you to get in some pretty awkward positions, but don’t be afraid to look like a baby giraffe. When I’m targeting shallow fish, the entire top-half of my body is hanging over the water’s edge. Always remember that small-water bass are never very bashful about attacking a bait within inches of the shore, as I’ve even had 5-pounders jump onto the bank to eat my topwater baits. Talk about a rush!
Be mobile
One of the biggest mistakes that I continue making to this very day is bringing everything I own when I bank fish. Every time I decide to go bank fishing, I end up emptying my bass boat compartments into the back seat of my truck. While it’s always good to have options, there’s often no need to over-complicate shoreline fishing. Taking a couple of hours to make a permanent bank fishing kit can optimize your fishing time while keeping your choices simple.
Just Like boat fishing
Just like fishing from a boat, keep moving until you find the fish and then work the area thoroughly to see if you’ve found where the bass are congregated. But avoid the mindset that you’re going to go to one spot on the bank and sit there until they bite. Be mobile and go to the fish.
1. Wear dark clothing
Now this may not me the most comfortable choice of apparel in the summer months, but it pays big dividends, especially when targeting shallow bass. I’m not suggesting you dress in a black jumpsuit, but even a dark t-shirt can really help your cause.
In my opinion, bass have much better eyesight than we give them credit for. Bass look upward for 2 primary reasons—for protection and for food. Whether they’re protecting newly hatched fry or looking to avoid predators, they can be fairly paranoid animals. I’ve also noticed that bass frequently look upward for feeding opportunities as I’ve witnessed many pond bass swim toward my bait before it even hits the water.
Stealth is the name of the game for bank anglers and a bright-colored shirt is going to give your position away in a hurry. Just like when I’m bed fishing on a big fishery, I like to wear a dark green or dark blue shirt to help my silhouette blend in with surrounding trees or clear skies.
2. Keep your distance from the water
More often than not, I catch my biggest pond bass within the first 5 casts of the day. Am I that good of an angler? Absolutely not. I do, however, make a concerted effort to stay as far away from the water as I can—especially when I first arrive.
There isn’t a worse feeling than approaching the water of your favorite farm pond, only to see the huge swirl of a spooked bass. It used to happen to me all the time, so I just started fishing from further away. There are always going to be some big, shallow pond bass regardless of the time of year, so make your first few casts count and catch them off-guard. When you’re convinced you’ve covered the area thoroughly, you can then start moving closer to the water to achieve the more desirable casting angles.
3. Start with the quiet, finesse techniques
We always hear the professional anglers talk about “picking off” the most aggressive bass with reaction baits before using more subtle presentations to catch the more lethargic fish. I’m well aware what I’m suggesting is the polar opposite, but hear me out. Pond bass are much different than big lake bass because in most cases they’re much less pressured. These pond bass aren’t used to having loud, shiny and intrusive baits whiz past their faces and in many cases they’ll get spooked by these louder presentations. For this reason I like to use a weightless presentation, such as a wacky rigged Yamamoto Senko, for my first couple of casts. It enters the water quietly, has a very natural, non-threatening profile and won’t spook those wary, giant bass.
4. Keep your bait in the strike zone for as long as possible
Understanding the proper casting angles is very important when fishing out of a boat on large fisheries, but it’s even more critical when fishing from shore. As I mentioned earlier, there always seems to be a good population of shallow bass on small ponds, so I like to start by targeting shallow water.
In order to do this, I cast parallel to the bank most of the time—even if it means leaning over the water and making an awkward, ugly looking cast. Make a long cast and slowly work your bait within inches of the shore and you’ll be shocked by how shallow big bass will be positioned. After a few identical casts, I’ll begin making quartering casts in the shallow areas, dividing the area into small “grids”. If there’s a shallow bass to be caught, there’s a high probability you’ll catch it with this technique.
5. If there’s a lack of cover, watch for environmental cues
We all dream about fishing small ponds laden with sexy blowdowns, stump flats and thick grass, but unfortunately for us, they’re hard to find. When you find yourself fishing small waters with limited cover, don’t be discouraged—environmental cues can be a dead giveaway to solid bass fishing.
I look for 2 specific environmental cues when bank fishing—wind and shade. Heavy winds blow plankton, baitfish, small panfish and most importantly bass to very predictable places on small ponds. For this reason, it’s always a good idea to focus your efforts on windblown banks. Although it can be irritating for casting purposes, especially when you’re surrounded by trees, it can produce some really big bass. Combine a windblown bank with the proper casting angles and you’re giving yourself an excellent chance of catching a giant bass.
Shade is also very important. In the absence of cover, look for any available shade spots as bass will position on the edge of shade lines just as they would a stump or fallen tree. Shady areas provide bass with both cooler water temperatures and a sense of security.Pond fishing is one of the best ways to become a better bass angler. If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to catch trophy bass, don’t be ashamed to head to a local pond this summer. Not only will you have a blast, but you’ll have the chance to hone your bass fishing skillset.
-By Walker Smith
Rain Gear
There are many great type of rain gear from many different companies. here are some links to great fishing water gear companies.
http://www.froggtoggsraingear.com/
http://www.basspro.com/
http://www.columbia.com/
http://www.cabelas.com/
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/
http://www.llbean.com/
http://www.walmart.com/
http://presleysoutdoors.com/
These are great companies with many varieties of rain gear. I love fishing, and some of my best fishing days have been in the rain. This is why fishing gear is so important. It gets you out of the canopy and back fishing.
http://www.froggtoggsraingear.com/
http://www.basspro.com/
http://www.columbia.com/
http://www.cabelas.com/
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/
http://www.llbean.com/
http://www.walmart.com/
http://presleysoutdoors.com/
These are great companies with many varieties of rain gear. I love fishing, and some of my best fishing days have been in the rain. This is why fishing gear is so important. It gets you out of the canopy and back fishing.
Line
Braided fishing lines have become very popular during the past few years. They work well in certain fishing situations and are extremely strong. They do have some drawbacks that out weigh the benefits at times, though. Please visit my new site at http://fishing-about.com - Don't forget the hyphen! Braids are made by braiding or weaving fibers of a man-made material like Spectra or Micro-Dyneema into a strand of line. This makes a very strong, tough line that is very abrasion resistant. This line is so strong that you have trouble breaking it when you get hung up. A fish is very unlikely to break it although the teeth of some species, like pike and muskie, can cut it. One of braid's biggest problems is tying knots in it. It is very slippery and you must tie the right knot, and tie it right, or it will slip and come undone. Most folks use a Palomar knot and it works well. If you tie an improved clinch knot, make sure you wrap it seven times. With either knot, leave a little bit of tag end when you finish knot. Don’t cut it off close to the knot. Some people even put a drop of super glue on the knot so it won't slip. Braids are very visible in the water. For that reason many fishermen do not like it in clear water. It may spook the fish, especially on finesse baits where you are trying to entice a fish to bite a lure they can see for a long time. You can put a leader on the braid but that involves an extra knot between you and your bait, one more place that can fail. Some folks say braids will cut into rod guides, especially the more inexpensive ones. If you use it you should make sure your rod can handle it. Braids will also bury into themselves on the reel spool. To avoid this, spool the line tightly and set the drag light enough so it slips on the hook set. Cutting braids can be tough. Most fishermen that use them carry scissors to cut them since clippers don't work very well. Even the sound braid makes in rod guides bothers some folks. It “sings” when you reel it in fast or when a fish pulls drag. Many braids also get a fuzzy look to them as they wear. It does not make them weaker but many people do not like the way it looks. Braids have a small diameter, are very limp and don't have any memory. They float so they can be good for top water baits, but they have very little stretch so it is possible to pull the bait away from a fish. And you must have drag set so a fish does not rip the hooks out of its mouth if it makes a strong run right at the boat. You can even break your rod because of the lack of stretch if you set the hook too hard. Braids are good when fishing heavy water vegetation like lily pads, hydrilla, water hyciants and cat tails. The braid will cut through the stems of most of these plants, keeping the fish from tangling you up, so you will land fish that you would lose with other lines. The lack of stretch in braids is good when fishing top water baits on long casts. You can set the hook better with a lot of line out if it does not stretch. Using a monofilament leader removes the visible braid from the fish's vision. When fishing deep diving crank baits the lack of stretch and small diameter helps get the plug down deeper. And when fishing a Carolina rig you can use a leader from the swivel to the bait and feel bottom cover and bites better while putting the braid out of sight of the fish. Braids are good in many applications but not good for everything. Give them a try but be aware of their drawbacks.
-Ronnie Garrison
Spawning
Prespawn
Early spring is one of the easiest times to catch largemouth bass. They will start to move up from deep water when the water temperature starts climbing above the 45 degree mark. Keep an eye on the weather. Warm rain warms up a lake faster than air temperature. Generally you will find largemouths in 2 - 12 feet of water. Start fishing for bass in the early spring in the Northwest corner of the lake or reservoir, where the water temperature will be slightly warmer than elsewhere on the lake. Concentrate on outside structure off spawning flats (points, logs, humps, rocks etc.). Look for bass in shallow creek arms with wood and weedcover after a warm rain. Other bass will still be deeper, associated with river channel points.
Baits for Prespawn
Fish the first emerging weeds and grasses with large spinnerbaits and jigs. Slow roll a spinnerbait over structure and flip and pitch the heaviest cover you can find. A stop and go retrieve with large crankbaits and spinnerbaits can be deadly.
Spawn
When the water temperature is between 55 and 65 degrees, bass will seek out a shallow, protected area for spawning. Lakes, especially the larger ones, don't warm up uniformally. Therefore, not all bass will spawn at the same time. Generally, the Northwest side of lakes and the upper areas of reservoirs warm up first. The spawning area must have direct access to the sun's rays, so look for shallow flats protected from rough water. This spot is usually within 10 feet of shore in depth ranging from 1 to 6 feet. The male chooses a site that is easy to defend, near a pocket of bulrushes, next to a sunken log or a boulder, and within easy access to deep water. In addition, the male will not build a nest within 30 feet of another visible spawning nest. Occasionally, bass nests will be closer together, but only if they are not in a direct visual line with each other. The nests look like black or white patches (depending on bottom make up). Generally speaking, the bigger the bass, the deeper the water and the earlier they will spawn.
Baits for the SpawnFish spinnerbaits and soft plastic baits in reedbeds. Topwater baits work best on the outside edges of reedbeds, secondary points, over cover and over beds. After a cold front moves through, bass will not seek deeper water, they move into heavy cover. Therefore flip the cover with jigs and worms.
If you're getting bit but not hooking up, you're probably attracting bedding bass that are just moving the bait, but not taking it. Use gitzits to catch bass off beds. When a bass angles down to your bait on a bed, watch his pectoral fins. If they're "revolving" and/or the fish turns a lighter shade of green (i.e. brighter), he's going to bite. Use bright baits on beds because bass don't care about the color. You need to see the bait and the strike so use a bright color. Use a 5 inch reaper when bluegill are spawning (usually during and just after bass spawn).
Post SpawnIf the beds are empty, fish points and drop-offs near flats and search for suspended bass. Post spawn bass typically are tough to catch. They spend the first two weeks after the spawn recooperating. After that, they start feeding again. Post spawn generally doesn't happen to an entire lake or at the same time due to differences in water temperature. Use a topwater bait such as a Zara Spook, even if they're 20 feet deep. Bass will also suspend under floating docks and log booms just after the spawn. Use a jerkbait, then use a jig on the second pass.
SummerAs the water temperature climbs into the 80s or 90s, largemouths must conserve their metabolic energy, and will move around less. Look for them to associate strongly with cover in 1-20 feet of water, where they can hold and ambush prey. Reservoir and lake bass move off-shore to deeper channel ledges, points, open water rockpiles and drop-offs, where they await schools of baitfish and intercept them as they pass. Just how deep they go depends on particular factors of each lake or reservoir - current, structure, temperature, oxygen, and availability of food. The larger fish tend to go into deeper waters, while the smaller fish may stay in relatively shallow areas. Even in the heat of midsummer, however, bass often return to shallow waters to feed in the early morning, evening, and late hours. Even so, they are rarely found in shallow waters in the middle of the day, especially when the sun is bright and the wind is calm. Schooling behavior begins to occur as bass feed heavily in short bursts, then move back to their holding stations to conserve energy.
This is the time of year when a bass' attention is focused on feeding. Therefore stock your tacklebox with crankbaits, jigs, spinnerbaits, worms, spoons, topwaters and finesse lures. Search for submerged weedlines with your depthfinder and concentrate on the inside edges in the morning and outside edges in the afternoon - the more erratic the edge the better. Look for isolated patches of weeds and fish those first. Fish all types of weeds until a pattern is developed. Bass will be in an ambush mode, and won't chase your lures. Therefore fish parallel to the structure. Use a rattletrap over these areas in the morning, then switch to small worms as the day progresses. Topwater baits can produce all day long, especially on overcast days. Lily pads, algea, matted weeds and other heavy cover are bass magnets. Fish these by either scooting a frog, rat or spoon over the top or punch through with a heavy jig or worm. If it's windy, focus on the windy side of structure. Plankton is blown there which attract the baitfish which in turn attract the bass.
FallBass become more active as the water cools back into the low 70s and 60s and will attack a faster-moving bait, such as a crankbait. Fish on long, tapering points with a deep-water access; some bass will be shallow and some still deep, and a long point interfaces with both environments. Boat docks and similar shallow structures offer good fishing during the fall. River channel bars and ledges provide places for the bass to feed on baitfish. And most bass tournaments held in fall are won along channel edges in the far back ends of creeks. Search for steeper shorelines, vertical drop-offs and green weeds. Topwaters are still a good choice as are spinnerbaits, jigs and oversized crankbaits. As it gets colder, slow down your presentation and downsize your lures. Flip jigs and plastics on remaining green weeds and drag plastics on deep outside breaks.
WinterLargemouth fishing is typically slow in the winter but it's a good time to catch a big fish. Fish in shallow lakes and concentrate on dense, shallow cover with slow-moving lures like jigs. Look for deep suspended bass on river channel drop-offs and submerged stumps. Focus on the base of deep drops and green weedlines. Fish slowly using a vertical presentation with jigs and spoons. Fish smaller baits for largemouths during cold weather than you might fish at other times. Their metabolism has slowed to the extent that they feed less often and take smaller bites when they do.
Bass Resources.com
Early spring is one of the easiest times to catch largemouth bass. They will start to move up from deep water when the water temperature starts climbing above the 45 degree mark. Keep an eye on the weather. Warm rain warms up a lake faster than air temperature. Generally you will find largemouths in 2 - 12 feet of water. Start fishing for bass in the early spring in the Northwest corner of the lake or reservoir, where the water temperature will be slightly warmer than elsewhere on the lake. Concentrate on outside structure off spawning flats (points, logs, humps, rocks etc.). Look for bass in shallow creek arms with wood and weedcover after a warm rain. Other bass will still be deeper, associated with river channel points.
Baits for Prespawn
Fish the first emerging weeds and grasses with large spinnerbaits and jigs. Slow roll a spinnerbait over structure and flip and pitch the heaviest cover you can find. A stop and go retrieve with large crankbaits and spinnerbaits can be deadly.
Spawn
When the water temperature is between 55 and 65 degrees, bass will seek out a shallow, protected area for spawning. Lakes, especially the larger ones, don't warm up uniformally. Therefore, not all bass will spawn at the same time. Generally, the Northwest side of lakes and the upper areas of reservoirs warm up first. The spawning area must have direct access to the sun's rays, so look for shallow flats protected from rough water. This spot is usually within 10 feet of shore in depth ranging from 1 to 6 feet. The male chooses a site that is easy to defend, near a pocket of bulrushes, next to a sunken log or a boulder, and within easy access to deep water. In addition, the male will not build a nest within 30 feet of another visible spawning nest. Occasionally, bass nests will be closer together, but only if they are not in a direct visual line with each other. The nests look like black or white patches (depending on bottom make up). Generally speaking, the bigger the bass, the deeper the water and the earlier they will spawn.
Baits for the SpawnFish spinnerbaits and soft plastic baits in reedbeds. Topwater baits work best on the outside edges of reedbeds, secondary points, over cover and over beds. After a cold front moves through, bass will not seek deeper water, they move into heavy cover. Therefore flip the cover with jigs and worms.
If you're getting bit but not hooking up, you're probably attracting bedding bass that are just moving the bait, but not taking it. Use gitzits to catch bass off beds. When a bass angles down to your bait on a bed, watch his pectoral fins. If they're "revolving" and/or the fish turns a lighter shade of green (i.e. brighter), he's going to bite. Use bright baits on beds because bass don't care about the color. You need to see the bait and the strike so use a bright color. Use a 5 inch reaper when bluegill are spawning (usually during and just after bass spawn).
Post SpawnIf the beds are empty, fish points and drop-offs near flats and search for suspended bass. Post spawn bass typically are tough to catch. They spend the first two weeks after the spawn recooperating. After that, they start feeding again. Post spawn generally doesn't happen to an entire lake or at the same time due to differences in water temperature. Use a topwater bait such as a Zara Spook, even if they're 20 feet deep. Bass will also suspend under floating docks and log booms just after the spawn. Use a jerkbait, then use a jig on the second pass.
SummerAs the water temperature climbs into the 80s or 90s, largemouths must conserve their metabolic energy, and will move around less. Look for them to associate strongly with cover in 1-20 feet of water, where they can hold and ambush prey. Reservoir and lake bass move off-shore to deeper channel ledges, points, open water rockpiles and drop-offs, where they await schools of baitfish and intercept them as they pass. Just how deep they go depends on particular factors of each lake or reservoir - current, structure, temperature, oxygen, and availability of food. The larger fish tend to go into deeper waters, while the smaller fish may stay in relatively shallow areas. Even in the heat of midsummer, however, bass often return to shallow waters to feed in the early morning, evening, and late hours. Even so, they are rarely found in shallow waters in the middle of the day, especially when the sun is bright and the wind is calm. Schooling behavior begins to occur as bass feed heavily in short bursts, then move back to their holding stations to conserve energy.
This is the time of year when a bass' attention is focused on feeding. Therefore stock your tacklebox with crankbaits, jigs, spinnerbaits, worms, spoons, topwaters and finesse lures. Search for submerged weedlines with your depthfinder and concentrate on the inside edges in the morning and outside edges in the afternoon - the more erratic the edge the better. Look for isolated patches of weeds and fish those first. Fish all types of weeds until a pattern is developed. Bass will be in an ambush mode, and won't chase your lures. Therefore fish parallel to the structure. Use a rattletrap over these areas in the morning, then switch to small worms as the day progresses. Topwater baits can produce all day long, especially on overcast days. Lily pads, algea, matted weeds and other heavy cover are bass magnets. Fish these by either scooting a frog, rat or spoon over the top or punch through with a heavy jig or worm. If it's windy, focus on the windy side of structure. Plankton is blown there which attract the baitfish which in turn attract the bass.
FallBass become more active as the water cools back into the low 70s and 60s and will attack a faster-moving bait, such as a crankbait. Fish on long, tapering points with a deep-water access; some bass will be shallow and some still deep, and a long point interfaces with both environments. Boat docks and similar shallow structures offer good fishing during the fall. River channel bars and ledges provide places for the bass to feed on baitfish. And most bass tournaments held in fall are won along channel edges in the far back ends of creeks. Search for steeper shorelines, vertical drop-offs and green weeds. Topwaters are still a good choice as are spinnerbaits, jigs and oversized crankbaits. As it gets colder, slow down your presentation and downsize your lures. Flip jigs and plastics on remaining green weeds and drag plastics on deep outside breaks.
WinterLargemouth fishing is typically slow in the winter but it's a good time to catch a big fish. Fish in shallow lakes and concentrate on dense, shallow cover with slow-moving lures like jigs. Look for deep suspended bass on river channel drop-offs and submerged stumps. Focus on the base of deep drops and green weedlines. Fish slowly using a vertical presentation with jigs and spoons. Fish smaller baits for largemouths during cold weather than you might fish at other times. Their metabolism has slowed to the extent that they feed less often and take smaller bites when they do.
Bass Resources.com